Thru-Hike Gear List

A thru-hike list looks like an ultralight list with different priorities underneath it. Things that fail at four hundred miles get replaced by things that fail at two thousand, resupply drives the food and fuel numbers rather than the other way around, and everything is chosen with the assumption that it will be soaked, packed wet, and used again the next morning. This kit sits just under ten pounds of base weight and around twenty two pounds leaving town with five days of food.

Load this kit into the gear list builder

That link drops all 35 lines into an editable list where you can swap in gear you already own, change quantities and watch base weight move. It is almost always faster than typing a list from a blank page, and it keeps the category definitions consistent with everything else on this site.

Who this is for: Anyone walking a long trail, where gear gets used every day for months and failure means a hitch into town.

Who it is not for: Weekend hikers. Some of these choices trade comfort for durability in ways that make no sense over three nights.

Every weight below is the manufacturer's published figure for the size and configuration named, and the consumables are stated for a specific trip: 5 day carry, town resupply, spring to autumn. A gear list without a stated resupply window is a wish rather than a plan, because food and water are the difference between a 9 lb 15.2 oz base weight and a 22 lb 5.5 oz pack. On this kit consumables are 55 percent of what is actually on your back at the trailhead.

Where does the base weight actually sit?

The running total column above answers the question people really want, which is not "what does this kit weigh" but "which line pushed it over". The category split below is the same data viewed from a distance. In almost every gear list ever written, the top three rows of this table are the Big Three, and that is exactly why the advice to start there is not just a slogan.

What can you skip from this list?

Telling somebody not to buy something is the only way the rest of a recommendation means anything. Everything below is on this list for a reason and every one of them is a reason you are allowed to disagree with. Read the second half of each entry before you act on the first half, because a few of these are conditional rather than optional.

• The dedicated food bag, in canister country. Where a canister is required it replaces the bag and the hang line entirely. Carrying both is 1.6 ounces of redundancy.
• Spare clothing beyond one sleep layer. On a long trail everything you own is either on you, drying on the outside of your pack, or in a laundry machine in town. A second hiking shirt is a town luxury that never comes out on trail.
• The pillow, after the first month. Most long distance hikers end up using their puffy in a stuff sack because the pillow is one more thing to inflate every night.
• A camp chair, a book, a second knife, a solar panel. All of these get mailed home from the first town stop by most people. Save the money and the postage.

What is not on that list matters more. Nothing safety related was cut to reach 9 lb 15.2 oz, and nothing should be cut from your version either. Shelter adequate to the actual conditions, insulation, rain protection, water treatment, navigation and a way to call for help are fixed costs on any gear list at any weight. A kit that hits a number by deleting one of those is not a lighter kit, it is a shorter trip with a worse ending.

What should you upgrade first?

Gear upgrades get argued in adjectives. They are better argued in a ratio. The table below takes every priced line in this kit, finds the lightest verified alternative on the same shelf, and prices the difference as grams saved per dollar spent. Anything above roughly 5 g per dollar is excellent value. Anything under 1 g per dollar is a purchase you make because you want it, not because the spreadsheet told you to.

Every priced line in this kit is already the lightest verified option on its shelf, so there is no upgrade table to show. From here the remaining savings are cottage gear sold by the gram and technique rather than purchases, which is the point at which most people get better value from a shakedown than from another order.

Read that table with two cautions. It ranks by value, not by importance: a cheap saving on a small item can top the list without changing how the pack feels. And it only compares gear we have verified, so a cottage item with no published price sits outside it entirely. The ordered reasoning, which is what to buy in what sequence rather than what is cheapest per gram, is in the buying order guide.

Where this kit says to spend, in order

• Shoes, repeatedly. This is the biggest running cost on a long trail and the least optional. Budget four to five pairs over 2,000 miles at roughly $100 each, and replace at the first sign that the midsole is dead rather than when the upper tears.
• Pack. A framed pack rather than the lightest frameless option, because a five day carry plus four litres of water is a 30 lb load and no frameless pack carries that for 25 miles a day.
• Shelter, from silpoly to Dyneema. Saves about 8 ounces for roughly $400, which is a poor 0.6 grams per dollar and a genuinely bad trade on a trail where the shelter is a consumable. Make this upgrade for the decade of use after the hike, not for the hike.

What is on your body rather than in the pack?

Worn weight is everything on you at the trailhead: shoes, socks, shirt, shorts or trousers, hat, and trekking poles when they are in your hands. It is real weight you carry all day, and by convention it is not part of base weight. That convention exists because worn items change with the weather rather than with your gear choices, and because a hiker who counted shoes in base weight would look heavier than an identical hiker who did not.

Poles are the item worth thinking about here. If your shelter needs them to stand up, poles are not optional gear and the tent poles they replace are the real saving. That is the single largest weight reduction available to most people, and it is why so many light gear lists use a trekking pole shelter. It also means a broken pole is a broken shelter, which is the argument for aluminium over carbon on rocky ground.

How much do the consumables add?

Food, water and fuel are set by the trip, not by your gear. This kit is loaded for 5 day carry, town resupply, spring to autumn, which adds 12 lb 6.3 oz on day one and drops steadily from there. Water is the volatile part: at 2.2 lb per litre, a decision to carry four litres instead of two costs 4.4 lb, which is more than most people save by replacing their entire shelter. Fuel is the quiet one: a 110 g isobutane canister weighs about 7.8 oz full and holds roughly 3.9 oz of gas, which is around a dozen two cup boils.

Food runs at roughly 1.5 lb per day in three season conditions and closer to 2 lb per day in winter, when staying warm overnight burns through reserves a summer trip never touches. The metric that actually controls it is calorie density: 100 to 125 calories per ounce is the ultralight target and about 110 is realistic for a mixed resupply. To work the numbers for your own trip rather than take a rule of thumb, the food weight calculator converts calories per day into ounces, and the water carry calculator does the same for litres between sources.

Why this kit is built the way it is

Silpoly rather than Dyneema for the shelter. It costs less than half as much, it sags less than silnylon when wet, and on a thru-hike a shelter is a consumable. Dyneema is the right call when you are keeping it for a decade.

Expect to replace shoes every 400 to 500 miles and socks about as often. Budget for four or five pairs of shoes over a long trail rather than treating the first pair as a purchase.

A framed pack rather than the lightest frameless option, because five days of food and four litres of water through a desert section is a 30 pound carry and a frameless pack makes that miserable.

Carry the satellite messenger. Long trails have long stretches with no coverage and the value of two way messaging on a bad day is not measured in ounces.

How does this compare with the other buildouts?

Six complete kits sit on this site and they are all built from the same verified gear, so the comparison between them is honest rather than rhetorical. They are also genuinely different kits rather than one list at six prices: the shelters differ, the sleep systems differ, and the reasoning differs. The pack weight column assumes each kit's own stated trip, which is why the winter and desert lists look heavy. One is carrying two pounds of food a day, the other is carrying six litres of water.

What should you change before copying this?

Three things, in order. Weigh what you already own, because half of any gear list is items you do not need to buy again and manufacturer figures are optimistic often enough to matter. Match the shelter and insulation to your actual conditions, not to the number at the top of this page: a 9 lb 15.2 oz base weight in the wrong shelter is a worse trip than a heavier kit in the right one. And check the local rules, because food storage requirements, fire restrictions and permit conditions decide what is optional. A bear canister adds over two pounds and is not negotiable where it is required.

Temperature ratings deserve their own warning, because this is where gear lists hurt people. A sleeping bag or quilt rating published as an EN 13537 or ISO 23537 limit figure is a survival rating, not a comfort rating. It describes the temperature at which an average sleeper gets through the night curled up and shivering, not the temperature at which they sleep. The comfort rating typically sits 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit warmer, and the extreme rating on the tag is a survival-with-injury figure that must never be used for planning. Rate your sleep system for the conditions you will meet at 4am, and check the pad under it: a warm bag over a cold pad does not work, because the ground pulls heat out of you far faster than the air does. Three season use wants roughly R 3, shoulder season R 4 to 5, and anything on snow wants R 5 and up, with R values adding together when pads are stacked.

Water treatment is the other one. Hollow fibre filters remove bacteria and protozoa and do not remove viruses, and a single freeze cracks the fibres with no visible sign at all, which means a filter that has frozen is scrap rather than a maybe. Below freezing, sleep with it. Carry a chemical backup on every trip regardless, because a filter is a single point of failure and chlorine dioxide weighs almost nothing. The detail is in the water treatment guide.

Related reading

• Load this kit into the gear list builder and edit it line by line
• Base weight calculator: check your own number against this one
• The Big Three explained: where 63 percent of this base weight lives
• How to cut base weight: the ordered method
• How to run a shakedown on a list you already own
• All six example buildouts